The Hampden Highball: A Cocktail That's Fittingly Spicy, Sassy and Smooth

When I decided a few weeks back that I was going to fashion a cocktail for each race of the Triple Crown, I knew that of the three, creating a drink worthy of the Preakness was going to be the most daunting task. I'd lived in Baltimore for nearly eleven years. I'd moved there right outta college, and in true poetic form (though not Poe's form) those days were the best of times and they were the worst of times. Since "Baltimore, The City That Reads," was a campaign that was just breaking when I parked my Uhaul at the corner of Cathedral and Center Streets, I'll continue with the literary allusions. What made those years the worst of times proved Tolstoy right: Bad relationships - whether with people, a job, even a town - are unique to each individual. Each person has their own gripe. But what made those years the best of times is something that is fairly universal: The joy we experience from our friendships. And even though I currently live on the other side of the country, the people that I met while living in Baltimore remain my friends to this day. They are still some of the most creative, talented, brilliant and funny souls I've ever had the pleasure of meeting. So I knew honoring those friends in a cocktail created for The Preakness was going to be a heavy and humbling task. 

I was set on only one ingredient: The drink had to include one of the soda's made my Stewart's. But what went into the cocktail after that? That's where I was stumbling. Fortunately, I'd just learned a big lesson about mixing drinks. And it came in a very small glass. 

We had recently attended a party in honor of "Peep's Corner," the latest print to be released by our friend, the artist and San Francisco fixture, Brian Barneclo (who just so happened to design the banner you see above.) The gathering was at Rye, one of the best watering holes in town, and I figured I'd take advantage of the expertise behind the bar. So when Douglas Williams, the aptly titled Liquid Alchemist, came over to take my order, I shrugged and said "Surprise me." And boy, did he. Doug mixed a drink that I can only describe as putting the "wow" in whiskey sour. He used rye, lemon juice, a little agave nectar, and some bitters. It was sublime. When I expressed my amazement over the balance of the drink, Doug essentially explained that if you have the right ingredients, at the right temperatures, the flavors will develop on their own. 

I remembered Doug's words as I went about creating The Hampden Highball, named for one of my favorite neighborhoods in Charm City. As I said, I wanted to use one of Stewart's sodas since the company was a Baltimore institution, but beyond that I was stumped. I'd hoped initially to create something with Stewart's Creme, or maybe Stewart's Key Lime. Why those flavors? Because mixing a successful cocktail out of the famous Stewart's Root Beer just seemed totally beyond my grasp of flavors. (For now.) 

In the end I relied on Stewart's Ginger Beer. Many memorable nights were spent with some of my best Baltimore friends drinking Jim Beam mixed with ginger beer (or ginger ale if we couldn't find any of the former.) Starting with that as the base I then added a little vanilla extract to pay homage to Stewart's Creme Soda, and some bitters in honor of the many cocktails I'd consumed at the now defunct-Memory Lane as well as at the legendary Club Charles.  I took the first sip. And it was awful. So, I took a second sip. Still just as bad. I decided to pour it over ice. It was then that I turned to my default garnish of choice - a healthy squirt of fresh lime. I gave the juice a quick stir into and under the ice, took a sip, and smiled. I think, though I can't be entirely, I had mixed a drink that would have made Doug - but especially my Baltimore friends - proud. 

I'm not going to question how those flavors came together. All I know is that somewhere in those chips of ice, the ingredients enacted an alchemy all their own. 

The Hampden Highball 

For the cocktail....

4 oz Stewart's Ginger Beer (if you need to use Ginger Ale, that's fine, just know that it won't have the same bite.)

2 oz Bourbon (Jim Beam or Maker's Mark will work best.)

A dash of vanilla extract (less than 1/8 tsp)

2 (or more) dashes of bitters

1 squirt of lime (squeezing out the juice from a quartered wedge should do the trick.)

For the garnish... 

Lime wheel

Vanilla bean (if you get these at Costco they are much less pricey.)

1. Pour ice in glass to halfway.

2. In a mixing glass add ginger beer, then bourbon. Add dash of vanilla (use a measuring spoon to get the "less than 1/8 tsp" if necessary) and then a few dashes of bitters. Stir.

3. Pour over ice. Squirt lime juice into glass. Give another stir. Garnish. Enjoy responsibly!  

I Got Your Horse Right Here: This Kentucky Clover Hits The Bourbonite's Trifecta!

In describing his already-ebullient nature the "Match Game" panel fixture Charles Nelson Reilly once said, "I'm usually at about a four. But with a little bourbon I can take it to 13." 

As a self-described bourbonite, I've yet to find a quote that better captures the spirit of my beverage of choice. Festive and feisty, bourbon can also be smooth and seductive. And, as years of imbibing have taught me, it has an adaptable year round appeal. 

Unlike Scotch which seems well-suited for winter, or vodka or tequila which, in my opinion, have an inherent chill making them perfect for summer, bourbon isn't a strictly seasonal pour. In every month on the calendar there are occasions that seem custom-made for the drink. So, it stands to reason that there should be drinks custom-made for those events. 

With May about to bloom, and with the Triple Crown at the gate, I wanted to christen a special cocktail in honor of this weekend's Kentucky Derby. In fashioning that drink, I turned to three different classics from the whiskey/ bourbon catalog and set out to create something new. I started with the basic ingredients of the Whiskey Sour, the Mint Julep and the Manhattan, and after a lot of shaking, stirring, steeping and pouring - down the drain as often as down the hatch, I have to say - I hit upon two formulas that made me, and those who shared them, quite happy. 

I approach making cocktails the same way I cook. I follow my instincts, marrying flavors and textures that I think complement each other. Just as I've never studied under a professional chef, beyond a few classes here and there, I've never taken a proper bartending class. There are several wonderful opportunities for the latter here in San Francisco, most notably the acclaimed courses offered at Bourbon & Branch. The classes are a little pricey, though, and while I'm not opposed to being taught by a master mixologist, I've already spent a great deal of time and money learning how to drink. It was at a place called Penn State. 

Relying on my instincts, and previous imbibing experience, I set out to concoct a drink this week that accomplished three goals: I wanted to enhance the inherent oakiness of the bourbon, reflect a bit of the Triple Crown's tradition, and also give a nod to the bright promise of spring. The result? A little cocktail I call the Kentucky Clover. 

I'll give a quick run down of its inception, then I'll get out of your way. I started the recipe with the idea of adding cloves and allspice to bourbon. The roundness of the allspice seemed a good match for the booze as did the bite and heat of the clove, but I was concerned they might be too warm for this time of year. I cooled them down with some ginger, orange peel and fresh-squeezed lemon juice. While all of these elements combined well, the sweetness of the drink was still overpowering. I cut back on the syrup - which I was relying upon for its viscosity - and then tried adding more lemon juice and also a jigger of vermouth. I liked both versions, while my taste-testers threw their votes behind the cocktail containing vermouth. 

Please ask any questions and please share your stories. The feedback is always greatly appreciated!

The Kentucky Clover 

For the spiced syrup.... 

2 cups sugar

1 1/2 cups water

13 whole allspice berries

7  whole cloves

peel of half an orange (or more if you prefer)

1/2 tsp fresh, minced ginger root

For the cocktail...

1 to 2 TBS fresh-squeezed lemon juice (I prefer more, than less)

2 oz bourbon of choice

2 oz vermouth 

1 to 2 oz of spiced syrup 

For the garnish...

Slice fresh lemon

Slice blood orange (or regular orange)

Sprigs of fresh mint 

Ice 

1. Make the syrup by dissolving sugar in water over medium heat. Stir frequently. Add spices, orange peel and ginger. (FYI: I used a vegetable peeler on the orange, pounded on the strips to help release the oils, then threw them in. I did not go down to the center of the fruit.) Bring to just a boil, turn heat down and allow to simmer for 20 minutes. Remove from heat and allow to steep for at least an hour. Let cool. Strain. (If you prefer a syrup with real zip allow the spices to remain in longer.) 

2. Place desired amount of ice into rocks glass. Pour in the bourbon, followed by the cooled syrup, then add lemon juice. Using a bartender's spoon or an iced tea spoon, stir to combine. 

* If you're not going to add the vermouth you can stop here. Garnish and serve. 

3. Pour vermouth into glass and again, stir to combine. Garnish and serve. Enjoy responsibly! 

NOTES: I used Maker's Mark for one version of this and Bulleit for another. I also had some Jim Beam on the shelf but didn't get around to making a version with it. The vermouth I used was sweet, but you can use dry if you prefer. If you choose to leave out the vermouth entirely the cocktail will lean more toward the flavoring of a Whiskey Sour. If you add the vermouth you'll have hints of a Manhattan. I also tried adding blood orange juice in one version but the color of the drink was not appealing and the flavor was a little too acidic. Juice from a navel orange was a nice addition but it boosted the overall sugariness of the drink to a level I wasn't happy with so I left it out in subsequent batches.